Archive for October, 2010

Oxtail Stew

Saturday, October 23rd, 2010

Oxtail Stew

Many years ago, my husband was asked to be an apprentice for a well known chef in London, Simon Hopkinson. This was a great opportunity for him. Claud was young and eager to learn everything he could from this amazing chef and his team of cooks.  He had been working at an oyster bar beneath the restaurant for a few years, shucking oysters and serving champagne.

On his first day, one of the other cooks told him he needed to prepare a water reduction for the chef. They told him to boil a series of huge pots of water and let them boil until each pot reduces to one inch. They explained to Claud that these were meant to create the perfect water reduction that the chef would use for his sauces later that evening. Claud did as he was told and filled several huge pots with water and placed them over high heat. He watched the pots boil for a very long time until there was only one inch left of water in each pot. Later in the evening, the chef walked in and Claud told him that his water reductions were ready. Simon gave him a puzzled look.

All of the other cooks broke out into hysterical fits of  laughter. They pointed and laughed at Claud. Claud realized he had been tricked. There is no such thing as a water reduction. You reduce sauces and stews when you want to create an intense flavor but a water reduction doesn’t make any sense. Claud was embarrassed but knew he was a rookie and this was part of the game. He had been officially hazed. Now he was a true member of the team.  After this episode, he went on to learn what a reduction was really about and how to make some of the most amazing sauces and stews using this method.

As I made oxtail stew this week and the sauce was reducing, Claud recalled this old story about when he was fooled by the other chefs and told me and the kids all about it. I chose oxtail stew this week because I ran across oxtails in the market and remembered how delicious they were last time Claud made this stew.

oxtail stew ingredients

I thought oxtail stew would be an interesting recipe to discuss because you don’t see it very often. However, oxtail stew has been around for a very long time and can be found in the recipes of many cultures. There are recipes for oxtail stew in Chinese, Greek, Indian, Spanish, English, and Jamaican cookbooks to name a few. It is difficult to find a culture which does not have a recipe for oxtail stew.

deglaze

The dish is very simple to make; but, takes four hours to cook. You don’t need to watch over it while it cooks. It might be a good idea to make it in a crock pot if you aren’t going to be home for the four hours. Some people may be squeamish about eating meat off of a tail. If you can get past that part, the end result of this stew is so rich and full of flavor. The meat falls off of the bone and almost melts on your tongue. It is a hearty and filling way to warm up after a cold fall day.

Oxtail Stew

Time: 4 1/2 hours

Serves: 6

4 pounds oxtails

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, sliced

3 cloves of garlic, sliced in half and smashed

3 cups red wine (I used cabernet)

6 cups beef/chicken stock

8 oz. tomato sauce

3 bay leaves

4 large potatoes

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon butter

sprigs of parsley to garnish

Spinkle salt and pepper on the ox tails. Heat the olive oil over high heat in a dutch oven. Once the oil is quite hot, add the oxtails. Brown the oxtails on all sides. Take the oxtails out and place on a plate. Place the onion into the dutch oven and saute for five minutes. Add the garlic and saute for another five minutes. Pour in one cup of wine to deglaze the pot. Scrape any of the browned meat from the bottom of the pot. Pour in the rest of the wine, the stock and the tomato sauce. Add the bay leaves. Let this simmer for three hours. Add in the potatoes, carrots and celery for the last hour. During the four hours of cooking, the stew will reduce, you should see that the liquid has lowered a few inches from the start. This creates a richer flavor. Melt the butter and mix it in with the flour. Whisk this combination into the stew to thicken it. Add any more salt and pepper if it needs it. Serve and enjoy.

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Chicken Picatta

Saturday, October 16th, 2010

When I was about ten years old, my parents used to take me to a restaurant called The Seashell. The first time we went, I ordered Chicken Picatta. It was amazing. The thin slice of chicken coated in a light batter, smothered in a buttery caper sauce, melted in my mouth. I had a new favorite dish. Every time we went back to The Seashell restaurant, I didn’t even look at the menu. I knew what I wanted, the Chicken Picatta. I remembered this delicious dish this week and decided to try to make it myself. 

The past weeks have been consumed with my daughter Daphne trying to make it into the talent show at her school. The woman who is in charge was quite brutal during the audition process. Often times, kids would stumble into the hall after trying out, sobbing because they, “just aren’t good enough for this show.” I think she was trying to be Simon Cowell.

Monday afternoon, I picked Daphne up and she was on the verge of tears. The teacher told her that she was probably not good enough but to check the call list just in case she makes it. I told her not to worry if she didn’t make it in the show and that if she did, it would be a mixed blessing. She had never heard of a mixed blessing and asked me what I meant by that. “Well,” I told her, “in this situation, it would be an advantage to you if you get into the show because you really want to be in it, you love to sing, and it would be a lot of fun for you. However, it might come with disadvantages because this teacher doesn’t seem very nice and might be very critical of you and your performance. That is a mixed blessing…a little good and a little bad.” She nodded in acknowledgement.

The next day, Daphne texted me with, “It’s a crossed blessing.” I laughed and was relieved she made it in. I love it when kids get the words wrong. Jack used to call seagulls sea eagles. It makes sense to call them sea eagles because they are big birds at the sea, like eagles. Here, a crossed blessing makes sense too. At least she understood the meaning.

In the end, Daphne made it into the show and has been practicing really hard to prove she deserves to be in it. The teacher has been really nice ever since. I guess it wasn’t a mixed blessing after all…just a blessing.

Later that evening I made my chicken picatta. I tried to remember how it was prepared so long ago in that delightful little restaurant. I decided to make it my own by adding peppers, onions and garlic to the butter and caper sauce.

I thought this would make it more colorful and tasty. The battered chicken in butter seemed too beige to me.

About half way through the recipe, as the chicken was baking in the oven, I looked at Claud and said, “Oh no, I forgot to pound the chicken into flat pieces.” Claud gave me a horrified look. “What, is that a big deal?” I asked him. “Yes, that is how chicken picatta is made.” Well, it was too late to worry about that. The sauce was almost finished and the chicken was nearly ready.

I had to go with it. I put everything on the plate. First I placed the lightly battered chicken breasts along side the roasted eggplant. The chicken looked so overweight. I was a little sad. Then, I poured over the buttery pepper and caper sauce. Then, it looked really good.

We sat down to taste it. We were both very quiet. A few bites in, I had to ask, “is it okay?” Claud said, “I think not pounding out the chicken was a crossed blessing. Sure, you are teaching people the wrong way to cook chicken picatta, but this is quicker and tastes just as good.” Ahh yes, maybe my chunky chicken is a crossed blessing.  

Chicken Picatta (fat style)

2 large chicken breasts, butterflied

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, diced

1 red pepper, diced

1 garlic clove, chopped

4 tablespoons butter

1 cup chicken broth

juice from two lemons

3 tablespoons capers

flat leaf Italian parsley to garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Mix the salt and pepper into the flour in a bowl. Place each piece of chicken into the flour mixture. In a skillet, heat the olive oil on high. Just before the oil smokes, turn the heat down to medium high. Place the chicken breasts into the skillet to brown. Turn over after four minutes and brown the other side for about four minutes. Place the chicken in a roasting dish and put this into the oven. In the same skillet, saute the onions and peppers for five minutes. Add the garlic for another three minutes. Add the butter and melt it completely. Pour in the chicken broth. Simmer for five minutes. You can thicken it up by adding a mixture of 1 tablespoon of melted butter and two tablespoons of flour. Whisk this into the sauce. You may not need to thicken it. You decide. Add the capers at the last minute. Take the chicken out of the oven. Make sure it is cooked all of the way through. Place the chicken on a plate and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with parsley. Serve it with a vegetable. It tasted wonderful with roasted eggplant.

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Spicy Lamb Stew

Saturday, October 9th, 2010

I usually have my idea for what I will make for this food column by the beginning of the week. This week, Wednesday rolled around and I was still unsure. I knew I wanted to use the lamb meat I bought for the occasion. However, I bought lamb stew meat and wasn’t really sure how to work with this. I bought it because it was inexpensive and something new for me to learn. I looked at many different lamb stew recipes and just couldn’t make a decision on how I should prepare this meal. I remembered a dish my friend, Gautam, made for us one night that was so delicious. He used fresh ginger, garlic and lime juice to prepare an incredible chicken dinner. I thought this might be a great way to cook the lamb. I wrote to Gautam and asked him to go over the recipe with me again to refresh my memory. He obliged.

Well, Wednesday afternoon did not turn out as planned. Imagine that! To make a long story short, one of my kids decided to test the limits of my sanity. I won’t discuss the details and embarrass the child here; although, I probably should to teach that little stinker a lesson.  No, retaliation is never the answer. By the time Claud came home from work, I was drained. We sat down together and talked about the situation and what the consequences would be for the child. I felt a tiny bit better and went upstairs to take a bath and to regroup. The thoughts of sending the child to boarding school or military school were no longer streaming through my mind. I calmed myself down.

As I headed back downstairs, refreshed and ready to cook lamb, I smelled something wonderful wafting in front the kitchen. Claud was cooking. I love it when Claud cooks. He is an artist in the kitchen. He tosses together ingredients like its second nature. He has a natural ability to combine food that not only works but sings. Everything he makes tastes magnificent. I think he felt sorry for me and decided I needed a break from cooking that evening. I didn’t ask any questions. I grabbed my camera and documented his meal. Of course, he had found my lamb meat.

Claud always begins a meal with an onion. He plans his recipe while he chops. So, onions were sauteing in the skillet along with celery. He never looks at recipes for ideas. All of his ideas are in his mind. He cooked the lamb meat in mustard seed, mustard, Worschestershire sauce, turmeric, thyme, basil, salt and pepper. I don’t think I would have come up with that combination had I cooked it myself; but, I knew it would taste perfect.

As the stew was almost ready to serve, he said he needed to thicken it up. Usually, Claud mixes some flour in water and slowly whisks this into the stew to make it thicken. I told him that I learned from Julia Child‘s cookbook last week that you can mix the flour into melted butter and whisk that into the stew to thicken it. It works much better. He did it and was impressed. This technique really works. I couldn’t believe I actually taught him something about cooking.

Finally, he plated the stew. He made the rice look beautiful by placing it in a bowl and then inverting it onto the plate. She spooned the stew around the rice, added a side of grilled polenta and garnished it with a sprig of basil. It looked beautiful. It tasted even better. The meat was tender and flavorful. I was relieved; because, I thought stew meat might be tough and bland. The combination of fresh herbs and mustard seed was the perfect combination of tastes. Claud and I sat at the table together and ate this delicious stew. “What are we calling this?” I asked him. “Feel Better Spicy Lamb Stew, ” he replied and I smiled knowing I did feel so much better. Then, we ate in silence. Only an occasional, “mmmm” was heard.  

Feel Better Spicy Lamb Stew

Serves: 6

Time: one hour

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 pound lamb stew meat

1 tablespoon mustard seed

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon garlic salt

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

1 tablespoon basil leaves, chopped

1 cup red wine

2 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon flour

2 tablespoons butter, melted

In a large skillet, heat olive oil on medium high heat. Saute onions and celery for about ten minutes. Take the celery and onions out of the skillet and place in a bowl. Turn the heat on high. Brown the meat in the skillet for about ten minutes (until it is browned on all sides). Add the mustard seed, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, turmeric, garlic salt, salt, pepper, thyme and basil. Add the onions and celery back into the skillet. Lower the heat to medium high. Let this brown a little more (for about five minutes). Pour in the wine stock to deglaze the pan. Scrape all of the seasoning off of the bottom of the skillet. Add the chicken stock. Bring the stew to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow it to simmer for a half an hour, allowing the liquid to reduce. Melt the butter and mix it in a glass with the flower to form a thick mixture. Slowly wisk this into the stew. It will immediately thicken. Serve with rice and grilled polenta. Garnish with basil.

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Coq Au Vin

Sunday, October 3rd, 2010

A few days ago, I casually asked Claud what I should make for this week’s article. He replied, “coq au vin.” I had heard of coq au vin. However, I had never before tasted it or cooked it. How did he come up with this so quickly? Of course, coq au vin (with sarcasm and a French accent). That’s just weird. He piqued my interest. I read through several coq au vin recipes, history, and blog posts. How could any meal with bacon, butter, wine, and garlic not taste phenomenal?  

I was a little concerned about using pearl onions.

A few years ago, I helped my mom prepare a Thanksgiving feast. One of the recipes called for pearl onions. I thought I should treat these tiny onions just like smaller versions of regular onions. So, I peeled about a thousand of them. My fingers hurt and I had tiny little paper cuts from the skins. It was horrible. I haven’t bought pearl onions since. I walk by them in the market and give them a sour look while thinking, “little meanines” to myself. Most coq au vin recipes use pearl onions. I decided to forgive and forget. Then, as I opened up the bag, I read through the directions on the label. You are supposed to soak them for three minutes in boiling water and then the skin peels right off with a squeeze. Are you kidding me? I tried this and it worked marvelously. 

The recipe I finally decided to use as my guide is Julia Child’s. About this time last year, my mom gave me a copy of her cook book, ”Mastering The Art Of French Cooking,” as an anniversary gift.

Mastering the Art of French Cooking, original ...

Image via Wikipedia

 

I haven’t given it much attention over the summer. However, with Fall here and the temperatures dropping, Julia’s deliciously rich French dishes sound perfect. I added carrots and celery to the pearl onion recipe and I used Shiraz instead of Burgundy. I also used a tomato sauce instead of paste and omitted the cognac (although lighting it on fire sounded exciting). Truth be told, I forgot to buy the cognac. Other than these minor adjustments and a few variations on amounts used, this recipe is all Julia Child‘s. No disrespect to Julia; but, I did remove a few steps too to make it a bit quicker. Some recipes I read used egg noodles and ladled the coq ou vin on top. I decided to use roasted potatoes as Julia recommends.  

The literal translation of this dish is cock of the wine. It used to be peasant’s food. There are a few different legends as to the origin of this dish. Undoubtedly, this was a way to cook rooster meat and to make it tender and tasty. Apparently, rooster meat is tough. Since people without a lot of money did not want to waste the meat of a rooster, they had to come up with a way to cook it and still enjoy it. Now, coq au vin is typically cooked with chicken and should be called poule au vin (chicken of the wine); but, it is still called coq au vin and is served in the finest french restaurants.

Coq Au Vin:

3/4 pound thick cut bacon

2  Tablespoons butter

1 whole 2 – 3 pound chicken (or chicken pieces)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

3 cups red wine (Julia suggests Burgundy. I used Shiraz)

2 cups chicken stock

8 ounces tomato sauce

2 garlic cloves, mashed

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

2 bay leaves

3 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons butter, melted

If you are using a whole chicken, cut it off of the bone. You can visit my YouTube channel: www.youtube.com/simplyfoodifyand watch a video where I show you how to do this. I always use a whole chicken so I can make homemade chicken stock. If you are using precut chicken, don’t worry about this step. Dry the chicken with paper towels. Cut the bacon into one inch pieces. In a dutch oven, saute the bacon slowly in hot butter until it is very lightly browned. Take the bacon out and set it aside.

Brown the chicken in the fat from the bacon (about five minutes each side). Season the chicken with the salt and pepper. Pour the bacon back in. Cover and cook for ten minutes on medium high heat.

Pour the wine, stock, tomato sauce, garlic and thyme into the pot. Make sure the chicken is covered in liquid. If not, add more wine until it is just covered. Bring this to a simmer. Cover and continue to simmer for 30 minutes. Take the chicken out and set aside.

Mix together the melted butter and flour to form a creamy mixture. Pour this slowly into the liquid and whisk it in briskly. This should thicken up the sauce. Serve with sauted mushrooms, pearl onions (recipe follows) and roasted potatoes.

Pearl Onions

2 tablespoons olive oil

24 pearl onions, 3 minutes in boiling water and peeled

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped 

1 Tbsp butter

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 Tablespoon herbs de provence

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

Saute the carrots and celery in the olive oil on medium high heat for about ten minutes. Add the melted butter. Add the pearl onions. Once the pearl onions are browned, add the herbs de provence, salt and pepper. Add the chicken stock. Cover and let simmer for 30 minutes.

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